Showing posts with label underwear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label underwear. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 May 2016

Victorian Ball - Photos!

Warning, pic spam ahead!

The Ball was amazing.  There's something about dressing up in a silly costume and dancing the night away that puts everyone in high spirits.  I had a really great time, and met some wonderful people, as well as reacquainting myself with a few faces from last year.

The final week before the Ball was a mad rush to finish in time (one day I'll work out that time management thing!).  I left London on Friday afternoon so I could spend the night at Becky's in Bristol.  Pretty much everything was finished.  The trimming and sleeves were only pinned onto Becky's bodice, but I could do that at hers.  Of course, it was at this point that I decided that what the outfit really needed, was about 8m more of the bodice trim on the skirt, to bring the whole thing together.  So with less than an hour to go before I needed to leave, I made a last minute dash for the haberdashery, and then was on my way to the coach station.

Luckily, all the hand sewing was done by about midday on Saturday, so all that was left was to do our hair and get dressed.  As Becky lives so close to Bath, it seemed wasteful to book a hotel room, but that left us with nowhere to get changed, hence why we turned up to the 3pm dance class in costume, and stayed that way until after midnight, when we were safely back home.  It just so happened that that weekend was the hottest weekend of the year so far, so lets just say those chemises definitely needed washing afterwards.  But we both braved the heat, even poor Becky in her velvet bodice, and I don't think it affected our enjoyment at all - nor did it stop us from joining in with the vast majority of the dances.

My green silk 1890s dress.  I tried to do the 1890s top knot thing with my hair, and was impressed that it stayed in the whole night, even if the "artfully messy" tendrils appeared within minutes.  I don't do tidy hairstyles...


We both had a train this year.  Mine was just about small enough to dance in and only trip up on a handful of times, but we quickly conceded that Becky's would need safety pinning up for unencumbered dancing.  Luckily I'd brought a sewing kit.



Note Becky's skirt trim.  I'm so glad I decided to add that last minute.  It helps to break up all that copper colour, and add a bit more texture to it.  The only thing I'm less than happy with is the sleeves, which look tacked on at the last minute... which to be fair, they were.

I kind of love how different our two gowns are.  And I was really pleased that they both seemed to get an equal number of compliments from other ball-goers.



And here are some of the other beautiful costumes and people from the night.  Photography kindly shared by Lucas Pitcher, Izabela's other half and co-organiser:

Izabela, our hostess, in he beautiful 1860s gown. 


This was Becky's favourite gown of the evening, it's gorgeous

And the lovely Peryn in my favourite. 




Yumi and her husband (whose name escapes me) were both lovely, and eager to come back next year.




These two looked so great together, and she kept her headdress on all evening -  that takes commitment!

The pre-crinoline crowd.

Our fabulous caller, Diana, and the wonderful musicians.

Action shot!  You can see me in green on the far right.

The whole group.  Becky's standing in the front row about 5th in from the right, you can just see my head bobbing up beside her.
So yes, good times were had by all!  I even had a couple of people express interest in getting their gowns commissioned for next year, which would be lovely.

And a final photo for good measure:

My underpinnings, taken at the end of the night (look at that hairdo still going strong!) while I was getting undressed.  I love that petticoat, it definitely needs more flaunting.

Saturday, 27 February 2016

HSM Procrastination Challenge - 15th c. camicia

I've joined the Historical Sew Monthly group on facebook this year, in the hopes that it'll encourage me to finish and photograph more of my personal projects.  It's not a terribly good start then, although fitting, that I've managed to miss the deadline on January's Procrastination challenge by almost a month!

At the tail end of last year I got very interested in the Italian Renaissance, specifically womanswear from the late 1400s.  While perusing pinterest I stumbled upon the altar paintings of Carlo Crivelli,  and immediately fell in love.  There doesn't seem to be any other documentation of this particular style of dress, so it's difficult to know whether it's entirely accurate, or whether he embellished the look, but I'm determined to recreate something inspired by these gowns.

St Mary Magdalene, 1491-4, Carlo Crivelli, The National Gallery 
St Catherine of Alexandria, 1491-4, Carlo Crivelli, The National Gallery
One of the great things about living in London is that it just so happens that many of these paintings are just a tube ride away, in the National Gallery; so I went to have a look in December.  It's difficult to choose a favourite, but I do love the detail on this one below.



St Catherine of Alexandria, 1476, Carlo Crivelli, The National Gallery 
I'm not an embroiderer though, so all that gold work will involve a bit of fudging if I want to recreate something similar.

St Lucy, 1476, Carlo Crivelli, The National Gallery


For now though, I've got the camicia (the shift worn underneath) finished.  I started this in December, neglected it over Christmas, made a stab at finishing in January, and finally got the neckline trim sewn on in February.  It doesn't look like much (and the matching background doesn't help, I know), but I think it's the first thing I've made that's completely handsewn, and I followed the instructions in Patterns of Fashion 4 in order to make the construction as historically accurate as possible so I'm quite pleased with it.  I even used linen thread, and hunted out the finest linen fabric I could find (even if the weave is a bit open for my liking).


There are no patterns (that I can find) of pre 1500 camicias, as there's so little extant clothing from that time.  My usual periods are the 18th/19th centuries, and there's a wealth of information available on construction, as there are so many existing garments to study.  With this project, I basically just have a few paintings, and educated guesswork based on what still survives from the following century.  I therefore made use of the 16th century patterns from Patterns of Fashion 4, adapting the neckline, and narrowing the sleeves.

The Challenge: January Procrastination
Material: Linen
Pattern: Adapted from Patterns of Fashion 4.
Year: 1475-1500
Notions: Linen thread
How historically accurate is it? As accurate as possible, given the lack of surviving camicias to study.  Completely hand sewn using period techniques.  Lets say 95%
Hours to complete:  If I'd done it all at once, probably 2-3 days.
First worn:  Just at home to check fit.  It's a bit too transparent for modelling photos though.
Total cost: I can't remember what I paid for the linen.  It'll be under £20 altogether.

Moving on to the dress itself will definitely be out of my comfort zone, but I'm excited to get started... just as soon as I've got this years' Victorian ball gowns out of the way - that deadline is fast approaching!